Афганистан: Этно-экспедиция в Ваханский коридор и к горам Памира

Day 1. Kabul

Morning arrival by air in Kabul, capital of Afghanistan. Short rest in the hotel.Visit to culture ministry, tourism department section, for permission letter for Badakhshan province. Then we altogether proceed to Tourist office for registration and report (official mandatory procedure). If it is finished fast, after lunch, walk around Kabul city center. Overnight at Hotel Kabul Star.

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Accommodation included: Kabul Star hotel or similar

Recommended flights:

— with any other flight that arrives in Kabul no later than at 8:30 am on July 20.

Day 2. Kabul — Salang Pass — Khanabad — Fayzabad (540 km, 13-14 h driving)Early morning by fast and comfortable bus start driving to Badakhshan province (long distance of 540 km, 13 - 14 hours driving).Breakfast and lunch in local restaurants on the way (Afghani local food).Drive through famous Salang Pass (3878 m) and long tunnels, passing by some very picturesque adobe villages and pastoral landscapes.Continue up to Fayzabad, center of Badakhshan province. Dinner and overnight at the hotel Qasri kokcha

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Accommodation included: Qasri kokcha hotel or similar

Day 3. Fayzabad — Baharak — Zeebok — Ishkashim (155 km, 4-5 h driving. Overnight elevation: 3040 m)After early breakfast, visit to the old brick bridge that have long history.Then we go to information culture office to present ourselves and to make official notification, as well as obtain permission letter for Ishkashim Wakhan.In case we succeed to finish the formalities fast, we start driving towards Ishkashim before lunch. Lunch at the restaurant in Baharak district or with traditional Afghani dumplings called mintow. If official papers get more time, lunch in Fayzabad, then later by 4x4 Land Cruisers drive up to Ishkashim (155 km, 4-5 hours driving) via Baharak and Zeebok, where big mountains appear visible.Arrival in Ishkashim. Walk around the town, visit market if available. Start preparing all provision for Wakhan&Pamir expedition.Overnight at the Marco Polo guesthouse with good food.

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Accommodation included: Marco Polo guesthouse or similar

Day 4. Ishkashim Khandud Qala-E Panj (110 km, 6- h driving)Early morning we have breakfast. Visit the market to arrange all for departure to Wakhan Corridor. Start driving before noon in order to reach Khandud (80 km) not late, to be on time for obtaining another permit. Drive to Wakhan corridor, along Wakhandarya river, from village to village (110 km) and get into acquaintance with the local life and culture, taking photos en route.The Wakhan Corridor is a narrow strip of territory, extending to China and separating Tajikistan from Pakistan. The corridor, wedged between the Pamir Mountains to the north and the Karakoram range to the south, is about 350 km long and 13 65 km wide. From this high mountain valley the Panj and Pamir rivers emerge and form the Amu Darya.The corridor was formed in 1893 by an agreement between the United Kingdom and Afghanistan, creating a buffer line between the Russian Empire (Russian Turkestan, present-day Tajikistan) and the British Empire (British India).The Wakhan Corridor has been closed to regular traffic for over a century and there is no modern road. There is a rough road from Ishkashim to Sarhad-e Brogil built in the 1960s, but now also rough mountainous road beyond, as well as some breathtaking mountainous paths available for horses only. These paths run some 100 km from the road end to the Chinese border and further to the far end of the Little Pamir.Arrive in Khandud, center of Wakhan district. Lunch and again passing registration procedure and continue to Qala-e Panja.Night at Shah Langer guesthouse.

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Accommodation included: Shah Langer guesthouse

Day 5. Qala-E Panj — Sargaz Hot Spring — Ptukh — Chihil Kand — Sarhad-E Broghil (85 km, 5 h driving. Overnight elevation: 3300 m)

Early morning, after breakfast, drive from Qala-e Panja to Sarhad-e Broghil (85 km), passing by Wakhan villages one by one, seeing Wakhan local style and learning about the culture.The Wakhi practice agriculture in the river valleys, and herd animals in the summer pastures at higher elevations. They often have two residences one for winter and one for summer. Their houses are built of stone and sod. Wakhi people are known for their unique underground houses, where only a hole in the ceiling serves for lighting and air ventilation.Ethnic Wakhi-speakers have a total population of about 50000 60000. The population is divided between four countries: Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Pakistan and China. The Wakhi people have been settlers of their lands for hundreds if not thousands of years however, because of the politics of Russian and British Empires during the 18-19 centuries, boundaries were created which separated the large body of the Wakhis into living in four countries.Arrive Sarhad-e Broghil, the last big village. Lunch.Guided will discuss our plan with the head of the village and organizes horses for next day trekking, for riding horseback and carrying luggage.We drive a bit back westwards to grab the chance and visit Wakhi traditional villages and their houses in Ptuh and Chihil Kand villages.Evening back in Sarhad, visiting hot springs to have a bath.Dinner and Overnight at Chaqanbay guesthouse.

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

accommodation included: Chaqanbay guesthouse

Day 6. Sarhad-E Broghil — Dahlez Pass — Borak(23 km, 7 hrs walk or horseback riding. Elevation gain: 600 m. Overnight elevation: 3400 m)

Early morning, after breakfast, we depart by horsebacks to Wakhi pasture plateau. On these high pastures groundwater and streams create seasonal meadows: the pamir from which the region gets its name.Each traveler has 2 horses, one for riding and another one for the luggage. We will choose the lower way, along picturesque Shover valley with the rivers, pastures and breathtaking views. The parallel upper way goes through Dahlez pass at 4267 meters above sea level and it is in bad condition after building the road here in the valley. Local traders and Wakhi shepherds used to take Dahlez pass in order to reach the valley and get back.Although the terrain is extremely rugged, the Corridor was historically used as a trading route and it appears that Marco Polo came this way.We stay overnight in Borak area, camping in tents.

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Accommodation included: camping in tents

Day 7. Borak Sanghi Nowishta Wakhi Camp — Nowhabad Wakhi Shepherds Camp (23 km, 8,9 hrs walk or horseback riding. Elevation gain: 920 m. Overnight elevation: 4300 m)After breakfast, we continue our horseback riding (sometimes switching for trekking) taking steep trail up and then along Wakhi pasture plateau, where Wakhi shepherds breed their sheep on the pure mountain hills at the high elevation.We pass pristine rivers and cross beautiful wooden bridges which bring us to medieval times. Not many people live here. Wakhan is sparsely populated. The total population is estimated at about 10,600 people. Wakhi and Kyrgyz are the major ethnic groups of Wakhan. Nomadic Kyrgyz herders live at the higher altitudes. We are on the territory of Wakhan Corridor Nature Refuge, where some rare animals can be found, such as ibex and snow leopard (more than 100 cats).Today we have adventurous trek. Crossing the bridge, we will take steeply up, to climb the Shupadkis Pass, gaining almost 1000 meters of elevation. We cover the distance until Sanghi Nowishta, where we have lunch and where during summer season 2 or 3 Wakhi shepherd families stay. Here some ancient stone inscription can be found.We spend time in Sanghi Nowishta with Wakhi sheperds who are really hospitable and open minded in this nomadic camp. We will get into acquaintance with the curious Whaki nomadic culture and lifestyle of Wakhi people in this place.Proceed to Nowhabad Wakhi shepherds summer camp. Late arrival and setting up our night camp. Dinner and overnight.

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Accommodation included: camping in tents

Day 8. Nowhabad Wakhi Shepherds Camp — Uween Sar Pass — Warm Wakhi Camp — Ghuramdhi Wakhi Camp(26 km, 8 hrs walk or horseback riding. Elevation gain: 690 m. Overnight elevation: 4200 m)

Wakhi shepherds come to these mountainous pastures only in late summer, as the summer here in Little Pamir is truly short. We are on the serious elevation where even during summer days you feel cool.While today trekking we overcome Uween Sar pass (4887 m above sea level), so that we are at the highest point of our expedition.Trekking/horseback riding (by today you for sure decide what youd prefer!) until Ghuramdhi Wakhi shepherds camp. On the way we will pass by another summer camp of Wakhi people.One more evening dedicated to local Wakhi traditions and photography.While Kyrgyz people have always been relatively rich pastoralists and primarily used this land for their pastures, Afghan Wakhi were much poorer in late 20th century. Wakhi farmers utilizing the Pamirs for summer grazing tried to compete with the rich Kyrgyz nomads who controlled most of the Pamirs. Some impoverished Wakhi took up jobs as shepherds for Kyrgyz herd owners. Eventually they turned to nomadic strategies, one of the rare case when farmers became nomads. Camping nearby the nomads.

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

accommodation included: camping in tents

Day 9. Ghuramdhi Wakhi Camp — Qurchin Kyrgyz Nomadic Camp (16 km, 5 hrs walk or horseback riding. Elevation gain: 400 m. Overnight elevation: 4100 m)

After breakfast in our camping nearby Wakhi nomads camp, we continue trekking among the mountains, passing Aqbalis pass at the altitude of 4595 m. Today we end up at Qurchin nomadic camp, where we reach first Kyrgyz nomads camp. Getting into acquaintance with Kyrgyz nomadic life, photographing.While on Earth live some 5 million Kyrgyz people, here in Wakhan Corridor they are considered minority and barely exceed 1000 inhabitants. Kyrgyz, along with Wakhi, occupy the same territory, but speak different languages: Wakhi belongs to the Eastern Iranian branch of the Indo-Iranian group, whereas Kyrzyr is Turkic language of the Altaic group. Kirgyz, as opposed to Wakhi, is written language.While Kyrgyz are predominantly Sunni Muslims, any ancient indigenous beliefs and practices, including shamanism and totemism , coexisted syncretically with Islam. Shamans, most of whom are women, still play a prominent role at funerals, memorials, and other ceremonies and rituals.Kyrgyz are nomadic and live year-round in yurts. As opposed to Wakhi, Kyrghyz people do not grow any crops and do not practice any form of settled agriculture. Kyrgyz use grazing grounds above 3500 m above sea level for breeding yaks, fat-tailed sheep and goats.Set up our camping close to Kyrgyz people and their simple local guesthouse. We will buy sheep or goat for dinner.Dinner and talk around the fire.

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Accommodation included: local guesthouse

Day 10. August 13, 2024 (Tuesday). Qurchin Kyrgyz Nomadic Camp — Chaqmaqtin Lake — Uchjilgha Kyrgyz Camp
(23 km, 5 hrs walk or horseback riding. Elevation gain: 240 m. Overnight elevation: 4170 m)

Today we start trekking along the plan plateau so resembling Bolivian Altiplano. We continue up to Lake Chaqmaqtin. Chaqmaqtin Lake lies at an elevation of 4024 m, extends for about 9 km and is about 2 km wide. The lake is a glacier basin lake formed when the ice was once very thick here before it melted away a few thousand years ago.
This place is known as the Pamir Knot, the area where the Himalayas, Tian Shan, Karakorum, Kunlun and Hindu Kush ranges meet.
We are now in Little Pamir area which is the home for Kyrgyz nomads scattered on this mountainous territory.
The Little Pamir is a broad grassy valley 100 km long and 10 km wide, and is bounded to the north by the Pamir Mountains. The Little Pamir is used by semi-nomadic Kyrgyz herders for summer pasture. Until 1978 the northeastern portion of Wakhan (the Great Pamir and the Little Pamir) was home to about 3000 5000 ethnic Kyrgyz. In 1978 almost all the inhabitants fled to Pakistan in the aftermath of the Saur Revolution. Many of the Kyrgyz subsequently migrated to Turkey, but in October 1979, following bringing the Soviet military forces to Afghanistan, a group of about 200 Kyrgyz returned to the Little Pamir. In 2003 there were 140 yurt households in the area (some 1000 Kyrgyz people).
You still can rely on your horses (no trust to your legs already) and take an advantage to spend this fool day with your new friend before we say them goodbye in the afternoon. The trekking/horse riding part is finished here.
Today we finish in Qurchin reaching Kyrgyz nomadic camp. There is simple home stay here, so no need in our tents. We can stay in the guesthouse. Keep discovering the Kyrgyz culture.
We can walk downhill to visit another Kyrgyz camp (some 3 km). And in the evening we will witness Buzkashi — traditional Afghani game, a kind of polo, where 2 teams on horsebacks struggle for the goat skin.

Accommodation: local guesthouse
Meals: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Day 11. Qurchin Kyrgyz Nomadic Camp — Chaqmaqtin Lake — Uchjilgha Kyrgyz Camp(23 km, 2 hrs driving by car. Elevation gain: 240 m. Overnight elevation: 4170 m)

Today trekking finished we will take car to lake chaqmaqtin along the plan plateau so resembling Bolivian Altiplano. We continue up to Lake Chaqmaqtin. Chaqmaqtin Lake lies at an elevation of 4024 m, extends for about 9 km and is about 2 km wide. The lake is a glacier basin lake formed when the ice was once very thick here before it melted away a few thousand years ago.This place is known as the Pamir Knot, the area where the Himalayas, Tian Shan, Karakorum, Kunlun and Hindu Kush ranges meet.We are now in Little Pamir area which is the home for Kyrgyz nomads scattered on this mountainous territory.The Little Pamir is a broad grassy valley 100 km long and 10 km wide, and is bounded to the north by the Pamir Mountains. The Little Pamir is used by semi-nomadic Kyrgyz herders for summer pasture. Until 1978 the northeastern portion of Wakhan (the Great Pamir and the Little Pamir) was home to about 3000 5000 ethnic Kyrgyz. In 1978 almost all the inhabitants fled to Pakistan in the aftermath of the Saur Revolution. Many of the Kyrgyz subsequently migrated to Turkey, but in October 1979, following bringing the Soviet military forces to Afghanistan, a group of about 200 Kyrgyz returned to the Little Pamir. In 2003 there were 140 yurt households in the area (some 1000 Kyrgyz people).You still can rely on your horses (no trust to your legs already) and take an advantage to spend this fool day with your new friend before we say them goodbye in the afternoon. The trekking/horse riding part is finished here.Today we finish in Qurchin reaching Kyrgyz nomadic camp. There is simple home stay here, so no need in our tents. We can stay in the guesthouse. Keep discovering the Kyrgyz culture.We can walk downhill to visit another Kyrgyz camp (some 3 km)Note: if finding horsesin the evening we will witness Buzkashi — traditional Afghani game, a kind of polo, where 2 teams on horsebacks struggle for the goat skin.

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Accommodation included: local guesthouse

Day 12. Qala-E Panja — Ishkashim — Fayzabad (265 km, 9-10 hrs driving)

Breakfast and start driving to Fayzabad (265 km), first half by dirty road and then tar road.Lunch in Ishkashim located right on the border with Tajikistan (traditional Afghani food).We change the cars again and continue to Fayzabad.Upon arrival in Fayzabad, we have dinner and check-in at the hotel. Then we can walk around the bazaar to see local life. Overnight in hotel Qasri kokcha

Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinner

Accommodation included: Qasri kokcha hotel or similar

Day 13. Fayzabad — Kabul (540 km, 13-14 h driving)Early breakfast and long drive (540 km, 13-14 hours) to Kabul. Lunch en route. We drive via Kunduz and Polikhumri provinces, making short stops in interesting places en route. Upon arrival in Kabul, dinner and overnight in Kabul Star hotel.Meals included: breakfast, lunch, dinneraccommodation included: Kabul Star hotel or similar

Day 14. Kabul — Return FlightBreakfast and city tour: National museum, Kartai Sakhi Shrine, Babur Shan Garden and Birds bazaar, Chicken street, historical area of Kabul. Visit to the street with plenty of souvenir shops and authentic goods from Afghanistan.Lunch and in the afternoon transfer to the airport of Kabul. Check-in and return flight home or another destination.

Accommodation included: no

Meals included: breakfast, lunch

Recommended flight:

— with any other flight that departs from Kabul in the afternoon on August 2